NOSE The first impression is vinous, like a well-used cocktail cabinet. Through this comes a light sponge-like aroma, followed by fruity notes (fresh plums, kiwi-fruit). Then the nose closes somewhat, with a promise of pear drops. With water, the reduced nose is estery, solvent-like and fruity - a fruit salad including oranges, apples, plums and pears. There is a hint of coconut milk and a fugitive scent of sweet tobacco. If more water is added, the nose becomes mossier, with a whiff of matchboxes (the sandpaper striker on a matchbox, to be precise). The last might indicate a thread of smoke.

PALATE Sweet; a good balance of primary tastes, with some pleasant acidity. If more water is added, there is a very slight hint of smoke.

FINISH Dryish, with some light chocolate notes and a light, malty aftertaste.